FRESH FROM MANLEY LABS
The famous Manley Stingray stereo integrated amplifier has been
renewed and refreshed. Allow us to present to you the Stingray II integrated tube amplifier
with full featured RF and
IR remote control. We also make another model with a built-in iPod dock
called the Stingray iTube that you can
learn about here.
The STINGRAY II is the next
evolution from our acclaimed Stingray Integrated Amplifier, legendary
in the hifi world since it first swam from our labs in 1997. Originally
conceived with particular attention paid to optimal component placement for
the purity and symmetry of the signal path layout, the Stingray quickly
became one of our best-selling products. The Stingray II retains the
same basic tube circuitry and marvelous output transformers as the
original with some important improvements:
The high voltage tube
energy storage has been increased vastly resulting in even more solid
and coherent bass control and impact.
A headphone jack has
been added to the right side facia. This jack re-routes the output from
the speaker binding posts and mutes the Subwoofer output feed. This
makes the Stingray II a fabulous headphone amplifier!
The 4th input source
is an 1/8" (3.5mm) TRS mini jack for convenient hookup with
portable devices and computers on the left front facia.
The Remote Control works with both Radio Frequency and
InfraRed technologies. Using the remote in RF mode gives freedom from
having to "point and shoot." The RF remote is omnidirectional
and works through walls and cabinets. IR capability is included for
those with Universal Learning Remote Controls for consolidated
integration into existing systems. The volume control, balance adjust,
input switching, and display options are all on the RF/IR
Remote Control. Additionally user can perform the MUTE, DIM, INSERT and
STANDBY commands with the Remote Control.
Each INPUT can be individually level trimmed to match
and to optimize system gain staging of various input devices.
The fancy blue LED displays surrounding the INPUT and
VOLUME encoder knobs can be dimmed down or turned off entirely, after a
user-settable time period, or a "screen-saver" random light
sequence can be selected. Speed and intensity of the
"Starlight" mode can be tweaked to taste.
All custom user settings are hard written into memory
when the unit is put into STANDBY mode and thus retained if power is
There is even a SLEEP timer which is programmable from the remote control to allow you to drift off carefree dreaming of your musical Stingray for 15, 30, 45 or 60 minutes while it gracefully lowers the volume and puts itself into STANDBY mode.
Individual sealed gold contact relays deliver
the selected input into
the volume control system before
hitting the first 12AT7 input tubes. Following the mighty 6414 driver/phase splitter, the
trusty EL84 output stage can be switched between either 20 watts of TRIODE
40 watts of Ultra Linear mode
push-pull operation. Individual bias for each tube is easily
adjusted using the trimpots and test points, conveniently
located on the top surface of the amplifier. The Stingray's
power supply is extra-rugged and stiff, a MANLEY hallmark.
It swims with the sharks: fast, agile, fluid, and with
Post-volume SUBWOOFER OUTPUT
allows easy hookup of outboard line-level driven active powered
subwoofers. This output is after the volume control so that the
subwoofer will track the volume level changes of the main speakers. The
SUB OUTPUT is a line level and full frequency output that is AFTER the volume control so your powered subwoofer
follows the same volume as your main speakers. These are unbalanced RCA
jacks, line level. They feed the line inputs of your subwoofer, NOT the
A switchable TAPE LOOP is
standard. The TAPE SEND is the output of the selected input before the
volume control. The TAPE RETURN can also be used as a 5th line input if
RECORD OUT (aka Tape OUT) is BEFORE the volume control so you can record whatever
input you have selected without your listening level affecting the
level going to your recorder. These are unbalanced RCA's. It is
UNbalanced RCA's and UNbuffered so check out the input Z to your recorder to make sure it
won't load down the Stingray main input while it is plugged in. Usually
with unbuffered record outs we recommend you only plug in your recorder
only when you are actually recording...
Tape LOOP: Also known as an INSERT point, the SEND or Tape Out comes
off the selector switch as the Record Out option does going to your
outboard EQ or Merlin BAM unit or tape recorder and then the signal
returns (RETURN) to the Stingray in front of of the volume control so
you can play tunes. A toggle switch selects whether the Tape LOOP (and
whatever is plugged into the Tape Loop) is active or the signal goes
straight through the Stingray as normal. If you have the Merlin
BAM system, order your Stingray with the Tape LOOP option.
than four inputs? Get a SKIPJACK line switcher and run it into this LOOP RETURN:
The SKIPJACK is perfect for adding more inputs to anything. So if you
use a SKIPJACK's 4 stereo inputs plus the Stingray II's 4 stereo inputs
(3 RCAs + iPod output) you'll get 8 stereo inputs total. The way to do that is to consider the TAPE LOOP: you can bring
the SKIPJACK output into the LOOP RETURN, enact the LOOP ACTIVE switch
and use the 4 x SKIPJACK inputs feeding the LOOP RETURN with the
SKIPJACK controlling source switching for those 4 inputs. Then if you put the
Stingray's LOOP switch to BYPASS you will be working with the 4 x Stingray inputs
selectable on the Stingray. That gives you 8 total stereo inputs as
shown below (7 stereo LINE inputs plus the 1/8" input jack).
if you do not want to use the TAPE LOOP feature (because you are using
it for other purposes) you can use a SKIPJACK to get up to 7 stereo line inputs
(6 stereo LINE inputs plus the 1/8" Line Input jack) by
running the SKIPJACK's output into one of the Stingray's inputs as
NOTE: The SUBWOOFER OUT, RECORD OUT, and TAPE
LOOP are all passive.
The RECORD OUT comes straight off the input
select switch. So whatever source is selected will show up passed
through at the TAPE OUT. With the Stingray, the MANLEY team has struck a
remarkably harmonious balance in design which satisfies the
sonic desires of the audiophile and the rocker, the artist
and the musician, the student and the master, the yin and
the yang. We invite you to experience the stunning sonic
quality and visual beauty of the Stingray personally.
Get the owner's manual for the Manley Stingray II.
Features and Specifications
Manley Stingray II:
- 3 x Stereo Line RCA Inputs
- 1 x Stereo Line 1/8" TRS mini-jack Input
- TRIODE - UL Output Stage Mode Switching
- RECORDING OUT
- SUBWOOFER OUT
- TAPE LOOP (Insert) with Bypass switch
- 1/4" Headphone OUTPUT (mutes speakers
and subwoofer output when deployed)
- Logic controlled Volume and Balance functions
- All-Vacuum Tube Lo-feedback Stereo Integrated Design
- Output Tubes: 8 x EL84 Ships with Russian NOS EL84M (aka 6Pi14Pi-EB)
- Driver Tubes: 2 x 6414 Ships with GE or RAYTHEON JAN NOS USA or 6414W
- Input Tubes: 2 x 12AT7EH Ships with: 12AT7EH large plate Electro-Harmonix Russian
*** USING OTHER TUBES: Read FAQ #16! ***
- Maximum Output Power UL mode: 32 Watts x 2 channels 1.5% THD @ 1kHz into 5 Ohms
- Maximum Output Power TRIODE mode: 18 Watts x 2 channels 1.5% THD @ 1kHz into 5 Ohms
- Frequency Response: 15 Hz - 58 kHz, -1dB
- Gain: 35 dB at max Volume
- Input Sensitivity UL Full Power: 210 mV in = 32 watts out into 5 Ohms with volume control at maximum
- Input Sensitivity Triode: 41mV in = 1W into 5 Ohms with volume control at 20dB gain setting
- Input Sensitivity UL: 35mV in = 1W into 5 Ohms with volume control at 20dB gain setting
- Crosstalk: -72dB See Chart
- S/N Ratio: typically 72 dB A-WGT, 1W output, 20dB gain, Source Z = shorted input
- THD+N Ratio: typically 64 db at 1W output, Bandwidth 22Hz-22kHz, Source = 1kHz Sine wave
- Input Impedance: 12 kOhm nominal
- Optimum Speaker Load: 5 Ohms
- Speaker Terminal Output Impedance at 20Hz: 2.36 Ohms
at 1KHz: 2 Ohms
at 20KHz: 1.83 Ohms
- Damping Factor: 2.4
- Headphone Jack Output Impedance: 53 Ohms
- Scratch Factor: Use pennies under pointed feet to avoid marring cabinetry. Try quarters if you are in upper tax brackets. The bargain performer would be nickels. Paper currency does not function as well. Euro coins work 1.54 times better.
- Remote Control Type: RF (radio frequency) and IR (infrared), user selectable
- Volume Control: Cirrus Digital Level Control System, controlled by Grayhill Rotary Encoders
- Volume Control Range: 102dB in 1dB steps turning slowly, with larger steps as rate of turn increases
- SLEEP timer: 15, 30, 45, 60 minutes
- Power Consumption (Standby): 6W
- Power Consumption Idle: 198W
- Maximum Power Consumption at Full Power: 300W
- Fuse type and ratings @ 117 VAC operation:
MAINS fuse: 3 Amp 3AG slow-blow use glass body Littlefuse Series 239
- Fuse type and ratings @ 230 VAC operation:
MAINS fuse: 1.6 Amp 3AG slow-blow use glass body Littlefuse Series 239
- B+ FUSES (2): MDA 1/4 AMP, 250 Volt SLO-BLO, Ceramic.
- Power Supply: is factory set for 100V, 120V or 220-240VAC operation for original destination country's mains voltage.
- Operating Mains Voltage: changeable with power transformer re-wiring on PCB and fuse value change.
- Mains Voltage Frequency: 50 ~ 60 Hz
- Power Cord: Detachable IEC standard.
Appropriate power cord supplied for original destination country
- Dimensions: W= 19", D=14", H= 7 1/2"
- Shipping Weight: 35 lbs.
Specifications subject to change because they just might.
What are the differences between the Stingray iTube and the Stingray II?
Mainly: the Stingray II has 1/8" line input instead of iPod dock.
The Stingray II has four sets of stereo analog inputs. The 4th input is on a stereo 1/8" jack for easy interface with portable devices and computers. The Stingray iTube® has an iPod dock as the 4th audio input which will charge and play your iPod, iPhone, or iTouch device. Track advance, back and volume control can be commanded from the Stingray iTube's remote control. The iPod's video output can be ported to a monitor via the S-Video output. The Stingray iTube® has been licensed from Apple as a Made for iPod approved device.
Note: the original Stingray has been discontinued.
NOT AVAILABLE OPTIONS:
Balanced inputs are not available. It's a single-ended input topology and so to balance it we would have to add chips or transformers. There is no power supply for IC's available inside and no room to fit more transformers or XLR's so please take the RCA's with a kind heart!
And no we cannot cram a phono stage in there...
TECH NOTE: Regarding which tubes to use in the Stingray in reply to an email
Q: Help! I lost an output tube! What to do? I have already ordered replacements.
Or should I look for some NOS? What are the best tubes to use in my Stingray?
You can temporarily sub in any output tube that works and biases up
properly to keep ya going. When your complete sets arrive, stick with
the batch sets. Even though there is adjustable bias for each tube, we
have found best performance when all 8 output tubes are pre-batched and
yes, of the same manufacture. The only way you should mix brands/types
would be if you had equal opposing push-and-pull pairs installed. In the
Stingray, tubes 1&2 are one phase and 3&4 are the other phase for that
channel. On the other channel 5&6 work together and 7&8 work together on
the other phase. In the case you had to mix brand/manufacture, like in
an emergency situation, (or I guess you could play with this to see what
happens) I would install one type in all the odd tubes and the other
type in the even numbered output tubes. Ei's and the NOS EL84M -
6Pi14Pi-EB RUSSIAN tubes are similar in the general current draw
operating parameter department.
I have observed in my brief history with them that the JJ's (and the
regular russian EL84 (not M)) generally require slightly more negative
bias volts to hold them down in the Stingray unless you have gotten them
preselected for similar current draw/negative bias volts to where the Ei
or EL84M/6Pi14 types generally fall. So if you had changed/lowered the
Master Bias Resistor for the JJ's you'll need to change it back for the
Ei or NOS Russian EL84M. Or if you had lower current draw JJs and did
not have to change out the MBR, then just rebias when you get the new
tube sets in there.
General concensus is the Ei's are (WERE) the best choice for the Stingray. The
russian EL84M 6Pi14Pi-EB are strong tubes. We use those in the MAHIs.
And since the Ei factory has been asleep for the last few years, the current
production Stingrays also use the Russian EL84M tubes.
As for currently manufactured 12AT7 types, the Ei has the most votes for
best sound in that amp if you can find them. As for other NOS exotica, we
cannot acquire enough GOOD NOS 12AT7s to base production on,
(hated those mid-80's Philips and GE's) so a good guy like Kevin Deal
at upscaleaudio.com is a super source for delivering interesting cool old
tubes to play with for those who want to play with input tubes.
The 6414 driver tubes we use ARE NOS. We seem to be running low on the
giant batch GE or Raytheon's we have been using for over ten years and
have now moved on to another huge batch of NOS 6414W GE we have in
stock. Nobody has reported any sonic difference on this. I would just
leave the driver tubes alone.
Cheers, EveAnna Manley